First Full Day in Tokyo

On our first full day, we started by walking into Akasaka (on the hunt for a Uniqlo and a waterproof coat) and walked from here, through Roppongi to get to Shibuya and the pedestrian scramble.

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After this, we continued to walk on to Yoyogi park, where there were musicians, Harajuku girls singing and a market stall. Pointing and ambitiously waving notes, we tried something anonymous (to us). It tasted good.

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After this, we walked around the outside of the park to get to the Meiji Jingu Shrine and witnessed some of Shichi-Go-San (loads of pictures here). We then jumped on the metro to look at the Metropolitan Government Building and to grab a cocktail whilst watching the sunset at the Park Hyatt. It’s a maze to get into (I also got distracted by The Conran Shop) with multiple elevators. Don’t stop at the peak cafe, continue to the 52nd floor to the New York bar. Not because I believe in the comforts of the Western world when you’re travelling, but because the view is phenomenal. (Again- recommendation from a friend, so cannot take credit for the “discovery”. Plus, if you’ve ever watched “Lost In Translation”…)

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We then went back to Akasaka and got ready to go out in Ginza for dinner.

For dinner, we went to Ginza Tenkuni. After last night’s blow out, we wanted to have something low key- this was delicious. It began as a street stall in 1885 and each floor has a different Tempura menu and set up. I had Tendon, which is tempura on rice with pickles and miso soup. I had cuttle fish and prawns. So good.

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After this, another longstanding establishment (and another recommendation from someone), a beer hall from 1935 that has remained almost unchanged since opening. It is German, but retains an element of being Japanese. Big beers at relatively cheap prices.

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So, it’s through a jet lagged, beer fuelled haze that I write this!

Shichi-Go-San

I can’t really write a lot about this, as I had to go and read up on it after seeing it, but “Shichi-Go-San” translates to seven-five-three. Three and seven year old girls and three and five year old boys are dressed in traditional dress and taken to shrines. It represents the rite of passage into “middle” childhood. Here’s some of the photos I took at Meiji Jingu Shrine today…

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First few hours in Tokyo

After 12 hours in the air, fuelled by dishes of somewhat questionable food (here’s a laminated chart, point at the picture you want…this resulted in some slightly and unintentionally undercooked chicken). After getting into the city on the monorail from Haneda airport, we unpacked and asked our concierge to book us into Two Rooms, a recommendation from the “Where Chefs Eat” book.

After tackling the Metro system and the rain, we ascended to the fifth floor of the building to begin our evening.

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There are two rooms in the restaurant (hence the name): a bar and a restaurant. The bar has beautiful views and an infinity pool extending out of the balcony.

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I started with an Espresso Martini and people watched for a bit, before crossing into the second room to eat! We opted for the FUYU menu, at the cost of 10,000 Yen. The kitchen is open and is fascinating to watch in terms of process and accuracy. I am always fascinated by this stuff.

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Here’s the menu

Roasted Pumpkin with Egg Yolk and Pine Nuts

Torched Tiger Prawns with Shishito, Sudachi Gel and Spiced Spinach

Crisp Fried Sweetbreads with Yurine Barley Genovese and Sansho Kuzu Consomme

Chargrilled Beef Fillet with Herb Confit Taro, Chanterelles and Porcini Essence

70% Dark Chocolate Tart with Leatherwood Honey Ice Cream

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What is a hero? #runbb

“A person who is admired for their courage, outstanding achievements or noble qualities”

Today I witnessed one of my heroes do something amazing. The term “hero” can be rather loosely banded around, but I witnessed somebody demonstrate all of the qualities I think make a hero: dogged determination, being 100% true to themselves, stoicism and dignity. These are noble qualities. These are qualities that demonstrate courage. These are qualities that have led them to deliver such outstanding achievements. There are only five or six people in my life that I can genuinely say exhibit these qualities, and they are who I regard as heroes- I hope you all know who you are.

Dogged determination: to the point that it drives friend, families and partners crazy. My heroes know what they want and go after it, blinkered and focused on their goal, even- or especially- if it’s a big gamble. If it induces any semblance of fear, they want it and stop at nothing to get it. It’s this that makes my heart burst with pride for them. And I tell them so.

100% true to themselves: my heroes never, ever compromise their values or beliefs to suit others or to take the easy route. They are different, but never tried to be anything but. They never changed themselves to make things easier for others: they swam upstream, they took the tougher route and it has shaped them into the people they are.

Stoicism: “The endurance of pain or hardship without the display of feelings and without complaint”. Perhaps this is a very British trait to select. I don’t mean it in a “stiff upper lip” kind of way. It’s okay that you hate your job/where you live/the current situation you’re in. Everyone complains about that stuff. It’s how you deal with the big stuff. It’s the way that you quietly deal with the shit and still show up every day to be a great partner, friend, sibling or parent. Yes, at times life is downright shit, but it’s how you deal with it that’s the measure of the person you are.

Dignity: finally, and somewhat connected. A quiet, dignified- some might say “classy”, approach to everything. Those who quietly take on board all the crap, work it out and understand how to deal with it in a dignified and classy way, are heroes to me.

So, why I am writing this? Today, one of the people I love more than anything in the world did something heroic. She ran her first marathon for The Bobby Moore Fund- a charity for research into bowel cancer and part of Cancer Research UK. If you want to sponsor her, the link is here.

Vix- you’re not a hero because you ran 26 miles. Although that is difficult, as we saw, and it confirms that you are absolutely mental.

You are a hero because you trained with dogged determination for six days a week through all these months.

You are a hero because, even as you sat with St John’s Ambulance at 22 miles with low blood sugar and blurred vision, you just wanted to finish it.

You are a hero because you were stoic throughout all of it- not just the marathon- all of it.

You are a hero because, even when you’re playing the clown, you have a quiet, classy dignity. Hobbling back through the town today you continued to cheer on those still running, encouraging them that there wasn’t far to go. There’s a reason you always won MVP.

But above all, you’re a hero because you have never- ever- been anything but 100% yourself.

Love you sis. You’re an absolute hero.

x

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Samsung Note 3 vs Apple iPhone 6s Plus

I have spoken of my love of my Samsung Note 3 before. It was a great, GREAT phone. Twenty-four months after our love affair begun, it was time for my scheduled upgrade. However, to my disappointment, there was no Samsung Note 4 on offer. I tweeted EE. Apparently no indication on whether they will be taking the Samsung Note 5 either. Crushed. So, knowing that I wanted the “fablet” format, I opted for the iPhone 6s Plus. First attempt to deliver involved the wrong name, wrong address and- turns out- wrong phone. Second attempt it all worked out. I am, once again, on the Apple train…cart…whatever.

I still haven’t mastered it though.

Here’s what I miss from the Samsung

The back button. It was an actual button. I keep getting stuck inside pictures and videos on the Apple and smashing the edge of the phone with no response

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Time zones. I had multiple time zones on display on the Samsung, which is great for work and knowing what time it is in Japan/China/America. Now, you can do it in the clock menu on the Apple, but it’s not on the front page.

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Things that the Apple can do better

Why oh why would you not load the apps on in alphabetically rather than chronological order? Is there a setting to fix that? It’s making me mad that Nest and Trainline are coming after Whatsapp and WordPress. Grr.

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The Apps are generally better. I guess people design for Apple first. However, here’s a couple of things that have annoyed me in the last couple of days

Spotify: I accidentally added a remix of a track to my playlist. HOW ON EARTH DO I DELETE IT!? I had to delete it from the Samsung I was getting so annoyed! There is a “Remove from this playlist” button on Samsung but not on Apple. Why!?

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Whatsapp: you can’t transfer everything over without downloading some dodgy apps or following insane instructions on YouTube. That’s why people use iMessage I guess!

WordPress: I can’t work out if I have set it up wrong, but it’s just not as good as on Android. Is that something to do with open source?

It took a while to transfer, but Apple have an Android to IOS app to transfer everything across (messages, contacts and pictures mainly). Only thing that was annoying was that it took across the photos as a photo roll, not folders. I have about 3500 photos on my phone- all neatly organised. Now they are in a massive long list of mess. It’s not even bloody chronological. So, I had to do something I had hoped to avoid: I had to use…iTunes (noooooooooooooooooooo). I had to take my photos across from the memory card on the Samsung, load them into “My Pictures” and sync across.

What’s so annoying about that?

iTunes is computer evil. It just takes over everything like a parasite.

I cannot edit those folders now. Why? Why can’t I add new things to those folders? Or delete stuff? Why? Why? Why?

So, that means, that all new photos need to go into new folders.

OR, I have to spend time re-filing the 3500 photos.

I just need to get over it.

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There is also no “hidden folder” option. Not even a password protect folder option. In order to do this, you have to download some sketchy looking apps, which I wouldn’t trust with sensitive information, ever!

But overall, here’s what’s great about the Apple

It is beautiful: the resolution is stunning, my matte “Kardashian” gold finish (Matt’s comment, not mine) is lovely, and it just feels nice (yep. I know. This really is turning into a really “quality” review)

The Apps, generally, are better.

I have to love it. We’re going to be pretty close for the next 24 months.

I can’t comment on the camera yet, because I haven’t played with it properly, but it seems ok. Might have to do a comparison on that separately. It was the thing I was most nervous about because the camera on the Samsung Note 3 was pretty good!

The accessories are better. Nobody makes nice Samsung cases. I practically had to commission mine. iPhone 6s Plus has a wealth of choices and I got this nice (I think) marble effect one (cue “so why get the Kardashian gold and then cover it up?” question). In addition, I like braided cables and there are loads of choices in terms of lengths and colours on Amazon for lightning cables- not so many for micro USBs.

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Where In The World

I always have a list of where I want to go next. For a long time, Copenhagen and Tokyo have been on the list, and by the end of 2015 those will be checked off! So, the list needs to be rewritten. Posing the question: where in the world to visit next?

TRAVEL MAPTrip Advisor Map

On the TripAdvisor website, you can map where you have visited in the world- city by city- or I have a little Choropleth map where you can colour in countries. (I also have a foil scratch map from my lovely friend!) I like tracking stuff like this. And I love lists. So below is some of the map in review, with lists and with some of the photographs I have taken whilst travelling, and then at the very bottom the “still to visit” list for 2016.

Best City Destinations

New York: There genuinely is no place like it.

Hong Kong: Despite the scent of drying sea cucumbers in baskets, on the street, Hong Kong is fantastic. A beautiful crossover between bustling Asia, comforting Britishness and stunning scenery from Victoria Peak.

Stockholm: Understated design, friendly people and beautiful architecture. Stockholm has a terrible dichotomy of having some of the best shopping, but being comparatively expensive!

San Francisco: Sun, architecture, shopping and great food.

Kuala Lumpur: Clean, humid and a fascinating blend of Islam, Asia and Britain.

Most Relaxing Destinations

Langkawi: Stunning island in the Andaman Sea that you can fly to from KL

Maldives: Everything you think it will be: disconnected from the rest of the world, Islands you can walk around in 30 minutes, water bungalows and beautiful Asian food

Cyprus: Villa buried in the olive groves, no passers-by and just solitude in the Cyprian mountains!

Los Angeles: Strange choice, I know. However, I felt so relaxed on the roof of The London hotel in Hollywood, that (despite the awful-ness of Grauman’s Chinese Theatre) I do associate LA with feeling relaxed!

Biggest Culture Shock Destinations

Marrakech: Hot, dusty and loud. You’ll get your bum groped (if it’s of an ample size, apparently), pestered to attend restaurants and people will offer to take you places for a small fee, but it is a real shock if you’ve never been to North Africa!

Istanbul: Calmer than Marrakech- we visited during Ramadan so every night, outside of the Aya Sofia there was food being cooked and families gathering. It’s both bustling (Grand Bazaar) and calm (Aya Sofia)

Moscow: It does feature on the least favourite places I have been, but I was so surprised at how culturally different it was. Stupid, I know.

Shanghai: An amazing experience, I flew to China for two nights only, but it was eye-opening.

Kuala Lumpur: There is an element of British-ness here, but if you are investigating the rest of the city and the beautiful mosques and temples you’ll see the difference.

Least Favourite Destinations

Moscow

Sardinia

Warsaw

Prague

The Canary Islands

Where next?

India

Kenya

Cuba

Costa Rica

Singapore

For all the non-chefs

Oh Nigella. You are fabulous.

I very rarely read the introductions to cook books. I like to flick through the pictures and the recipes. However, the opening of “Simply Nigella” is fantastic. I want to quote it all to you, because it is just so perfectly written. A polite rant against the notion of “clean eating”, and an articulation of the role that food- and the preparation of it- has on our physical and mental well-being.

“The Clean-Eating brigade seems an embodiment of all my fears. Food is not dirty, the pleasures of the flesh are essential to life and, however we eat, we are not guaranteed immortality or immunity from loss. We cannot control life by controlling what we eat. But how we cook and, indeed how we eat does give us- as much as anything can- mastery over ourselves”

Nigella gets it. Whilst I can’t profess that we are living parallel lives (I have never crept back downstairs in black silk to feast on whatever is in the fridge in a seductive way), she understands- even defines- the role that food (and a love of it) can play in the lives of modern women.

There is a quote, from Julia Child, that I firmly believe in

“People who love to eat are always the best people”

As I reflect on this quote, and look at the people I love in my life, they all love to eat. They are order-too-much, try-anything-once, yes-let’s-have-dessert kind of people. In fact: acquaintances on the peripheral- watch out. This is my new benchmark on whether you’re in or out. Get eating if you want in.

Anyway, the point of this is, Nigella makes it okay to love food, in a guttural-obsessive kind of way. And I like that.

In our household, we take cooking in turns. My go-to books in the last few weeks have been Nigella’s. Why do I love them so much? Now, I do like Jamie Oliver, but those 15 minute meal books were not 15 minutes. I mean, my cupboards are bulging dry stores with spices, herbs and most things required to make, well, most things. However, I still don’t have half the stuff Jamie asks for.

This is another reason why Lady Lawson gets it. When reading through “Kitchen”, you’ve got most of this stuff at home. And if you don’t, you should. If there’s ever something unusual in a recipe, she uses it more than once in the book. That’s practical. I didn’t resent the inclusion of Gochujang paste. I embraced it. And then cooked a load of other stuff with it. Yum, yum Korean food.

The recipes are also usually quick, or a low maintenance slow cook. Proof, once again, that she gets it. Her Sticky Toffee Pudding cheat is flipping voodoo, but it is an amazing tip for a fast, delicious pud.

Nigella has a guttural passion for food, but she is also academic in the study of food. I have a huge respect for her studious understanding of it. She is not a chef, and neither are we.

So, non-chefs. Let’s settle down for the evening and indulge in “Simply Nigella” and start making our shopping lists for the weekend.

Choosing where to eat

I like to eat, but I am not a foody (whatever the definition of that may be!). I am, however, academic and studious. I study and investigate. So, when I’m travelling, I often have a list of places I want to go to. Here’s my go to sources.

Listen to the chefs

My favourite travel books always come from Taschen or Phaidon. My favourite food book, at the moment, is “Where Chefs Eat”- it goes from high end, Michelin star, all the way down to a falafel cart on a corner in Manhattan. It’s brief, to the point, and gives you a good selection of places based on food- rather than hype. There are no photos to lure or disgust you. Just text and talk from people who love food.

The only problem is, it’s massive! So photograph the page before you go anywhere. Or, you can get the app version. My favourite find in here so far was Koka in Gothenburg but I’m travelling to Tokyo, Osaka and Copenhagen before the end of the year and this book is helping me choose the places to eat on my travels!

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Listen to the foodies

Another source of information is Instagram. Just type in the city and food into the search bar and you’ll get a plethora of photographs. I think there is some school of Instagram food photography. They all follow the same style. My own food never looks that appealing.

So a #bristolfood or #newyorkfood will put you straight into the Instagram feeds of the foodies of the world. Particular favourites are ClerkenwellBoyEC1 for London or hertastylife for Chicago.

Even when I’m not looking for something, I can waste hours trawling through their feeds and photos!

Listen to your friends

One of my favourite quotes is:

“People who love to eat, are always the best people”

Julia Child

I love it, because it is true. And if you have true foodies for friends (meaning, they care about the food, rather than just shovelling it into their gobs, like me), even better.

The best recommendations are always the personal ones. Hopefully, you trust them (and their judgement) and can simply take the list and go eat.

My trip to San Francisco is a great example of the foody friend recommendations coming to fruition. Good food. Good mood.

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Discover

I like to study and make lists and ensure I am making the most out of a short trip anywhere. However, that being said, sometimes the very best finds come from…finding it. For a planner, that’s uncomfortable and ambiguous. However, sometimes no plan, is the best plan. Take the food trip to Seattle– the late night pizza was so welcome. Or just walking along the harbourside in Bristol and stopping somewhere. Those discoveries are sometimes the ones you remember the most- because they were so good (or so bad), because by the time you got there you were tired and hungry and desperate to eat, or because they just formed part of the big adventure.

Head over heart. When it comes to food, sometimes it can be best (figuratively and literally) just to go with your gut.

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Lessons from living abroad

Between November 2013 and November 2014 I was given an amazing opportunity: I was given an assignment in Chicago. I moved there, alone, whilst my husband managed a business back in the UK, and embarked upon the biggest adventure of my life to date. A couple of weeks ago, on a train from Paddington back to Bath, a round robin question was posed to a group of twelve people; “what are you most proud of in your life so far?”. For me, the answer is “Chicago”. Living 3700 miles way, working it out for myself- working out about myself, and surviving twelve months in a big city. Eleven months after I got back from my year away, here’s the main things I learned.

Being alone is actually kind of good

I have never lived alone. I went from school, to university, to living with my now husband. Bar eight weeks, I have been in a relationship of some sort since I was fifteen years old. Without realising it, I had got this far in my life without actually knowing what it was like to spend any time with myself. I had never sat at a bar alone. I had never eaten in a restaurant by myself. It was uncomfortable at first, but here’s the thing: masturdating (dating by yourself) is kind of good, and being okay with your own company is a big deal. Not too much alone time- I am a massive overthinker who can let things explode and implode in my overactive brain- but a bit of alone time is good. Masturdating is amazing. Do it.

Make it happen

This week, in a haze of jet lag and frustration, I burst into tears. It was triggered by a compliment: “you grabbed America: you discovered it, and embraced it, and shook it up”. I think I cried because that’s the reason I am so proud of the whole thing. Before living abroad, I have never even asked a person out of a drink- for fear of getting a “no” answer. One cold February afternoon, I did this. The person said yes, and that person became one of my closest confidants. Grabbing the experience, doing things that scare you (and we’re not even talking about sky diving scary here…) helps you grow and meet new people.

Friendships are important

When you’re in a city, on your own, you need to develop a support network. This is even truer you factor in five months of extreme cold that, frankly, drives you batshit crazy. I made a couple of amazing friends living in Chicago. Sometimes it feels crazy that I have only known them for two years. I describe these friendships as “pressure cooker” friendships, because they matured quickly. The proximity with these peoples is greater: not only are you in the same city as them, but-because I was alone- they become your support, your confidants and your temporary family.

The only warning from this learning is that, they could end up meaning a lot more to you, than you to them. They all went home at night, to their families and support networks, but I needed them a lot more. So there may be an imbalance in your relationships: but that’s ok. You have to work at maintaining the friendships- especially when you’re the one who disappears back to whence you came! Large distances and time differences all contribute to the challenge, but if you think the friendship is worth it, the additional effort on your part is worth it too.

Big world versus small world

I come from a small world. A very small world. I live in the town I was born and raised in. I work just eight miles from the house I lived in until I was fourteen. I am lucky that I have travelled quite a bit, but fundamentally, I am (shamefully) a small town girl. Juxtapose this with the Second City: it’s big and brash. It engulfs you with skyscrapers and traffic and noise, and this is just the physical stuff. Big world versus small world differences infiltrate other things too. Relationships- personal and professional- are more complex in big city environments. I am aware that this is beginning to sound like a Victorian novel, damning the corruption of the big cities and industry- but there is a difference. Generally, on all matters, choice is broader; competition is greater and people’s standards are higher. It might be dating, work or friendship, but because of the breath of choice, they set high benchmarks of expectations and scrutinise these expectations in a much harsher way. The net result of this can lead you to doubt your assessments of people; their intentions and their truth. It took me a long time to see this one, and I still haven’t quite sussed it out. Overall, people are more emotionally mature, because they have to suss out the intentions and game plays of others much earlier. My small world didn’t have this much…well…bullshit. It has caught me out a few times: I can spend hours over-analysing things if people have sown any seed of doubt. Small world life just doesn’t have such intricacies, and I am okay with that! I guess the advice would be to take your gut feel on this stuff- easier said than done though!

You can squeeze a lot into this life

When I lived in America, I felt like I achieved a lot. Working out four to five times a week, jumping on planes for customer meetings, going for dinners and drinks, breakfasts and brunches- there was a lot going on. I didn’t have a house to maintain, so that freed up a bit of time, but there was a lot of stuff happening.

Now, this is the lesson that I haven’t learned from: my life was pretty jam-packed in America, and my job was ten times the work and the pace of the job I have been doing for the last eleven months. I embraced it and tried to do as much as possible. It is easier to do when the world is on your doorstep: you can drink up a big city every day. You never have to do the same thing twice if you don’t want to. Choice is huge. Options are broad.  Somehow I did it all. Went spinning four to five times a weeks, and now I proclaim I am too busy?! That’s a bullshit excuse on my part! If you want something done, ask a busy person. I definitely need to learn from this lesson!

So, there’s my five main lessons from a year abroad. In summary:

Being alone is good for a bit. Masturdate. It’s great.

Make it happen. Be bold, brave and experience it all fully.

Friendships will be important. Maybe more to you than them, but that’s ok.

Beware of the toxicity of the “big world” (if you’re from a small world!)

Squeeze as much in as you can!

And all those lessons work whether you’re at home or abroad!

Autumn Fashion: I want a grey cardigan!

I love winter fashion far more than summer. That’s mainly because I aim to be covered from wrist to ankle, whatever the season, and that is a whole lot easier to do when the temperature drops. I have a beautiful grey, thick cardigan from Monki, (the term being coined online seems to “coatigan”), but it’s just a bit too much. Too hot and itchy for the temperamental weather, but serves the role of layering, and it’s the perfect length. So, this afternoon I was on a mission to find a grey cardigan. I have been overwhelmed and unsuccessful. Here’s the choices. Click on the image if you want to see more! I’m off to play eeny meeny…

Halo Cardigan, All Saints

£148

Split Side Open Cardigan, Banana Republic

£65

Waterfall Belted Cardigan, Next

£32

Pure Body Open Cardigan, Gap

£44.95

Pure Body Ribbed Cardigan, Gap

£44.95

Long Line Coatigan, New Look @ ASOS

£27.99